epoxy for boat repair boat building - "boat epoxy resin (ie. epoxy goo or goop)"
Which marine epoxy resin should you buy? How much $ to spend?
Marine Epoxy Resin - Boat 'goo' for building and repair
marine epoxy and plywood kayak under construction
Marine epoxies (a.k.a. boat epoxy) are a rather raw form of epoxy resin and epoxy curing agents and boat building is not a particularly difficult task for an epoxy. The result is that the market is full of marine epoxy vendors and for the most part, they all work.
There are just a handful of big chemical companies that make the basic resins and curing agents. There are two kinds of marine epoxy vendors. One just takes these raw resins/curing agents and repackages them into boat owner sizes. These are called repackagers. The 'better' marine epoxy vendors begin with these materials and then do additional processing and formulating to add properties and characteristics they want in the marine epoxy. These folks are called 'formulators." Progressive Epoxy Polymers, MASS, WEST are all leading marine epoxy formulators. How to pick your vendor/marine epoxy CLICK HERE for how to pick marine epoxy and a marine epoxy vendor .
As with anything called marine, prices are generally jacked way up. Epoxies cost under $50 a gallon to manufacture (even with the added costs of the formulators) - but are often sold for well over $100 a gallon. More on this CLICK HERE to learn about marine epoxy pricing.
Marine epoxy is a two part resin system. You mix part A with part B and after a certain amount of time it turns into a hard plastic like product. Using the correct ratio of part A to part B is very important. Some products have a 1:1 or 2:1 or 3:1 etc. mix ratio by volume. The diffences in the mix ratios doesn't tell you very much about the epoxy, but keep in mind that the part B is the expensive part so the products that use a lot more A than B are formulation tricks to reduce manufacturing cost and make more money for the manufacturer/formulator. Most marine epoxies are a 2:1, but one is an amazing ($$$) 5:1 blend.
For a complete index of Marine Epoxy - Boat Building and Boat Repair web sites - CLICK HERE for marine epoxy and boat repair internet links .
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Basic No Blush epoxy with fast winter cure - winter time boat building!
from tax free New Hampshire -- CLICK HERE
(epoxy resins for marine applications)
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Help from the Granite State of New Hampshire .
I have been using Basic No Blush marine epoxy (standard cure) on my plywood boat, and I have been impressed. I work on the boat when I have time and sometimes that means a dry 75-80 degrees, or a hot and humid 95. The epoxy seems to be very accommodating to temperature and even an accidental improper mixing a time or two. I am ready to fillet large areas and have been using no blush with wood flour and have been getting nice looking fillets. I need to place another order soon...
another email :
I'm in the process of starting a boat school in Portland, OR (http://wind-and-oar-boatschool.org/). We are working on our first boat, which is a St Ayles skiff, with a group of 10 completely novice women doing the build. Its the first all women build and the first on the west coast. The St Ayles Skiff is a Iain Oughtred design done for the Scottish Fisheries Museum and now the cornerstone of the Scottish Coastal Rowing Project (http://scottishcoastalrowing.org/). Last fall WoodenBoat Publications picked up the concept and got 5 high schools in Maine to start the boat and I am mirroring the idea for high schools in Portland. The first youth boat will start this fall but in the mean time a group of women approached me about building one too.
When it came time to decide about epoxies, I turned to Michael Bogoger (Dory-man) for advice. He suggested your Basic No Blush marine epoxy and we've been extremely happy with it. The forgiving nature of the basic no-blush has been ideal for a school situation where many people are mixing and consistency is not necessarily high. Michael has covered our build on his blog several times and this link (http://dory-man.blogspot.com/2011/06/wind-and-oar-boat-building-school.html) is to one of his posts where you can see us using your product. His first post about us was on the occasion of his first visit to Portland when I had him give a little seminar on epoxies.
Why Basic No Blush (tm) epoxy is the BEST in its class:
1. A formulated blended resin system (not repackaged raw chemicals)
2) Uses NON BLUSHING curing agent for blush free results
3) not too thick, not too thin, not too brittle - ever see an epoxy surface with millions of tiny cracks? It is brittle, repackaged (see #1) not formulated epoxy
4) the only marine type epoxy with bubble breakers for superior flaw free finishes and uniform properties and appearance and allows for thicker, multiple layers with better clarity
5) the only epoxy adduct marine type epoxy for superior enhanced properties (standard cure only)
6) strong user support / feedback
7) 24/7 support email firstname.lastname@example.org
8) less expensive than the other formulated epoxies which still don't have many of the advantages listed here
Visit The Marine Epoxy Everything Guide (click here)
GOOGLE 'basic no blush' search results
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PARTIAL DATA SHEET
BASIC NO BLUSH (tm)
Pebble Stone Surfacing
Easy 2:1Mixing Ratio
Contains no carcinogens
Three Different Curing Agents
Basic No-Blush™ is a 100% solids, marine grade epoxy coating system designed for general marine/
boating applications. It will not blush or water spot under normal conditions. It is available with three
different curing agents, a fast cold weather (a slightly yellow curing agent), our standard clear curing
agent, and a thicker, amber colored slow warm weather curing agent. The standard cure version is also
widely used for resealing epoxy/pebble flooring systems.
The slow summer curing version is ‘viscosity adjusted’. Because epoxies become thinner (less viscous)
in warmer weather, the summer curing agent has been thickened to approximate the viscosity of
the standard No-Blush epoxy at approximately 70°F.
Creating and maintaining pebble/epoxy decks
Excellent chemical resistance
Convenient 2 to 1 ratio by volume ( 1 to .422 by weight) base/cure - Standard cure
Superior adhesion to cold, damp surfaces
Approximate viscosity at 72°F:
Part A: 900 cps 900 cps
Part B: 175 cps 4,500 cps
Mixed: 600 cps 2,000 cps
COMPRESSIVESTRENGTH .......... ASTMD695 9,500 psi /9,200 psi (STANDARD/SUMMER)
TENSILESTRENGTH.................... ASTMD638 6,200 psi /8,600 psi
CS-17WHEEL, 1 kg LOAD ............ ASTMD4060 0.20 gm loss /0.20 gm loss
WATERABSORPTION.................. ASTMD570 0.16% /0.16 %
(2 hour boil)
FLEXURALSTRENGTH................ ASTMD790 5,500 psi /5,500 psi
SHORE D HARDNESS ................. ASTMD2240 90 /78
HEATDISTORTION...................... ASTMD649 125°F /125° F
LAPSHEAR.................................. 2,200 psi /2,250 psi
|FIND COMPLETE DATA SHEET AND MSDS - CLICK HERE|
Internet Boating /Boat Building Related Links - CLICK HERE
Internet Floor Coating / Floor Epoxy Links - CLICK HERE
Teflon (tm), graphite, copper powder, MIO - CLICK HERE
BIG list of internet links for: FLOOR EPOXY PAINTS - GARAGE FLOOR COATINGS
BIG list of internet links for: EPOXY BOAT BUILDING - REPAIR - MARINE EPOXIES - BLISTER FIXES - BARRIER COATS
BIG list of internet links for: EPOXY REPAIRS - ROT - LEAKS - PIPE REPAIR - UNDERWATER REPAIRS
BIG list of internet links for: EPOXY BASICS - GETTING STARTED WITH EPOXIES - EPOXY 101
DID YOU KNOW...
Epoxy coatings are used because of their
outstanding chemical resistance, durability, low porosity and strong bond
Epoxies consist of a ‘base' and a ‘curing' agent. The two components are mixed in a certain ratio. A chemical
reaction occurs between the two parts generating heat (exotherm) and hardening the mixture into an inert, hard
Epoxies yellow, chalk (or more commonly least lose their gloss), in direct sunlight (UV). The yellowing can be a real problem. For pigmented epoxies select colors that are dark or contain a lot of yellow (such as green). Even clear epoxies will yellow and cloud up. Often epoxies are top coated with latex or urethanes that will retain their color and attractive gloss. This is particularly true if color coding or matching company colors is important.
Epoxies will harden in minutes or hours, but complete cure (hardening) will generally take several days. Most epoxies will be suitably hard within a day or so, but may require more time to harden before the coating can be sanded.
By their nature, epoxies are hard and brittle. Additives can be added to epoxies that make them less brittle, but generally at the loss or reduction of other positive epoxy properties such as chemical resistance.
Other clues of cheap epoxies include ‘induction time' (after mixing the two components the mixture must sit for several minutes to ‘self cook' before being applied).
The best time to recoat epoxy is within about 48 hours after the initial coat. Because epoxies take days to reach full cure, a second coat applied shortly after the first coat will partially fuse to the first coat rather than forming a simple mechanical bond.
End users can thicken epoxy with many things, Tiny glass spheres, known as micro-spheres or micro-balloons are commonly used. Besides thickening, their crushable nature makes sanding the hardened epoxy easier. On the downside, they work like tiny ball bearings, resulting is sagging and slumping. Another thickener is fumed silica (a common brand name is Cabosil (tm)) which looks like fake snow. About 2 parts fumed silica with one part epoxy will produce a mixture similar in texture and thickness to petroleum jelly. Micro-spheres and fumed silica can be combined together.
Fisheyes are areas on a painted surface where the coating literally pulls away for the substrate leaving a coatingless void or fisheye. Often fisheyes are caused by surface contaminants such as a bit of silicon, wax, or oil. I have also seen them on clean plywood where epoxies paints have been used as sealers and the problem might be due to uneven saturation (soaking-in) of the epoxy into the wood. Surface tension plays a big part in fisheyeing. There are some additives that can be mixed into the epoxy that will reduce surface tension. Likewise, on wood, applying several coats of solvent thinned epoxy, instead of one coat of unthinned epoxy, seems to work well. Applying a thick coat of epoxy over a contaminated fisheye surface will bury the fisheye but expect the coating to peel away in the future. As a rule of thumb, always suspect some sort of surface contamination as the primary cause of fisheyeing.
Adding a bit of solvent to a solvent based or solvent-free epoxy is something that most manufacturers would not officially approve of and something that might not work with all epoxies. However, it can be done (unofficially) with the epoxies I deal with. Adding solvent to these epoxies will: 1) thin them out; 2) increase pot life; 3) allows them to flow off the brush/roller a bit more smoothly; and 4) perhaps allows them to ‘soak-in', penetrate, or may be soften, the substrate just a little bit. Not change is visible in the epoxy unless 12% or greater solvent is added. With that amount of solvent, the epoxies no longer cure with a glossy finish.
It is best to use epoxies with a mix ratio close to 1 to 1 as opposed to something 4-1, 5-1, etc. because errors in the mix ratios can be more pronounced with the latter. That said, no matter what the mix ratio is, some epoxies are more forgiving of mix ratio errors than others. One ‘trick' of epoxy vendors with odd or very sensitive mix ratios is to sell calibrated pumps that disperse the epoxy components in exact amounts.
How Thick? How thick should your coating be? Economics play a major role in determining how much coating to apply. One U.S. gallon contains 231 cubic inches. That's only 1.6 cubic square feet of surface at one inch thick and that's also assuming a solvent-free product. If the product is 25% VOC (i.e. 25% solvent) then dry thickness/coverage will be 25% less. Again, assuming a 1/4 inch thick coating (250 mils) maximum coverage will still be only 6.4 square feet per gallon. A solvent-free (100% solids) epoxy coating applied at 16 mils will cover 100 square feet per gallon (note: the wall paint in your office is probably 2-4 mils). While thick coatings sound like a good idea, they use so much product that they must be made very cheaply so that coating 1,000 or 10,000 square feet can still be done at a competitive price. A high quality, fairly expensive product with a coverage rate of 100 sq. feet or more per gallon, on the other hand, will have a low enough cost per sq. foot to provide both economy and top quality.
ONLINE PRODUCT CATALOGS
PROGRESSIVE EPOXY POLYMERS, Inc
of marine catalog section (blue background)
MARINE - CLEAR EPOXIES
Section Two FILLERS THICKENERS ADDITIVES
Section Three THICKENED EPOXIES - EPOXY PUTTIES, ETC.
Section Four EPOXY PAINTS (barrier coats)
Section Five URETHANES AND NON-EPOXY COATINGS
Section Six NON-SKID DECK COATINGS
Section Seven MARINE REPAIR PRODUCTS
Section Eight MISC. MARINE PRODUCTS
MASSIVE BOAT HOW TO - ISSUES - HELP WEB LINK SITE
Residential / Commercial / DIY Catalog
of residential/commercial catalog section (brown background)
Section B FLOOR EPOXIES (regular and non-skid products), SEALERS, ACCESSORIES
Section C THICKENED EPOXIES - EPOXY PUTTIES, ETC.
Section D CLEAR EPOXIES
Section E NON-EPOXY PAINTS COATINGS SEALERS
Section F MIX-IN ADDITIVES
Section G OTHER PRODUCTS
Section H SURFACE PREPARATION PRODUCTS
Section I MISC. ACCESSORIES
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Which marine epoxy resin should you buy? How much $ to spend?
Marine Epoxy. Resin - Boat 'goo' for building and repair